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Finally we made it to the oldest steel plant Illich Iron & Steel Works named after the Soviet “vozhd” Vladimir Illich Lenin. It was a grand reception – the plant’s management provided us with uniforms and helmets and showed us around the major industrial enterprise in the Donbas area.

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On Saturday, the fourth day of our journey, we went to Sartana — a small Greek village which is a part of Mariupol’s agglomeration. Most of the town’s population is of a Greek ethnicity. They all speak Russian, while the Hellenic dialect (the language of Greeks who moved to this area from Crimea) is disappearing. The young generation learns Greek in schools, but the city mayor Stepan Mahsma said that this language will be gone soon.

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One of the first things we were told when we arrived in Mariupol was that “Lenin has gone” and Lenin’s Square is now “ The Square of Fallen Lenin”. Indeed, this was a wind of change for many towns: more than 500 statues of “vozhd” (a Russian word for a leader, a person in supreme authority) were dismantled during the last year all over Ukraine.

“Where did the statue go?” — asked one of AU residents. “Dunno,‘’ — replied Kostya Batozsky — “It was a bronze statue, probably it was sold as scrap. Ain’t it symbolic: capitalism has won in the end.”

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While the Bible says that “at the beginning was the word” the contemporary art world is often driven by “not understanding a word”. When you come to a country which is different to the environment you’re used to, a clash of local culture with your personal (in)ability to respond to it and vice versa starts a whole new conversation.

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